Have you ever considered yourself a size S or M, but one day measured yourself and discovered you’re actually an L? It happened to me when I started making my own lingerie. It was a revealing moment that made me question everything I thought I knew about sizing. I also realized how much mental resistance I had to going up a size. But once you overcome that, you get lingerie that truly fits — and feels so much more comfortable.
The illusion of standard sizing
Before we dive into vanity sizing and why it’s so common in the fashion industry, it’s important to understand where sizing charts come from. Standard body measurement charts are based on extensive anthropometric studies that analyze the proportions of different populations to create measurement references. Each country has its own, because a Nordic body differs from a French or Asian one in proportions.
Each brand chooses a chart that matches its target customer, assigns a size, and builds its own sizing system. In theory, this should make things clear — but it doesn’t. There’s no universal standard. That’s why you might wear one size in one brand and a different one in another. So how does each brand decide its size chart? Before buying lingerie, it’s always a good idea to check the size-guide to make sure you’re choosing the right fit for your body.
What is vanity sizing?
Vanity sizing is the practice of labeling garments with smaller sizes than they really are, to make customers feel better. For example, what used to be a size 12 might now be labeled as a size 6. It’s a psychological trick — one that sells a feeling as much as it sells a product.
How vanity sizing affects us
This practice manipulates our insecurities in subtle but powerful ways. Studies show that vanity sizing affects not only clothing but also lingerie, influencing how we perceive our bodies and our worth. Psychologist Alexis Conason explains that this trick sells a “superficial dose of confidence.” Labels showing smaller sizes can boost self-esteem, while larger ones can lower it — even when the body hasn’t changed at all. You can read more on this in the following post or this one.
Vanity sizing also leads to huge inconsistencies between brands. A woman may wear a size 4 in one store and a 10 in another. Buying clothes — especially lingerie — becomes a frustrating guessing game. But that’s a topic.
The designer’s dilemma
As a designer, I often face a dilemma: should I stay true to traditional sizing systems, or give in to vanity sizing? If I keep using traditional measurements, I have to be very clear on my website about it — and emphasize the importance of taking your own body measurements before buying. The challenge is that most people want things quick and easy. They assume their size from big brands applies everywhere, which may lead to choosing the wrong lingerie size at Sartori Atelier.
Towards a more conscious purchase
I believe there’s a lack of information and awareness about how sizing really works. It’s essential that people learn to make conscious, informed purchases — understanding what they’re buying and how it fits their body. As brands, we have the responsibility to guide clients through that process. And as clients, we have the responsibility to know our bodies — not just the labels.
How to make a conscious lingerie purchase
- Measure your body and trust the numbers, not the letters. Each brand has its own sizing chart. What’s an M in one might be an S or L in another.
- Always check the brand’s size chart. Don’t assume; take a moment to compare your measurements before choosing your size.
- Prioritize comfort and fit over the number on the label. A garment that fits well makes you feel good — no matter what size it says.
- Ask if you’re unsure. If you have doubts about which size to choose, reach out. At Sartori Atelier, I’m always happy to help you find your perfect fit.
Your comfort defines you
The fashion industry has turned sizing into a confusing game — but that doesn’t mean we have to play by its rules. Instead of obsessing over numbers, we can focus on how a garment makes us feel. Lingerie is intimate and deeply personal; it should adapt to you, not the other way around.
So next time you buy lingerie, remember: your body hasn’t changed just because the size label did. What matters is that the piece fits, feels comfortable, and reflects who you are. And if you’re still unsure which size is right for you, check the Sartori Atelier size guide or reach out — I’ll help you find your perfect match.
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