Lingerie should make us feel comfortable and confident in our skin, yet often it doesn’t because the pieces we buy are designed for a “standard body” — which simply doesn’t exist. At Sartori Atelier, a lingerie atelier in central Barcelona, customization is key to creating pieces that truly fit your body, not the rigid and uniform measurements of the fashion industry. This approach not only gives you a unique piece but also ensures a fit that embraces the natural, beautiful differences of every body.
The Myth of the “Standard Body” in Fashion
Most lingerie on the market is designed based on standard sizes, without considering that every person has a unique combination of proportions. Small backs with large busts, wide backs with small busts — the variations are endless. Many brands produce according to a single sizing chart that doesn’t reflect reality, and each brand may use its own measurements, often influenced by typical body types from other regions (e.g., Nordic or British bodies), which can differ greatly from Mediterranean or Latin bodies.
The Difference Between Correct Size and Personal Preference
When designing custom lingerie, we distinguish between the correct size
based on body measurements and each client’s preferences or needs. The correct size ensures proper support and fit, but personal preference also matters for how someone wants their lingerie to feel.
For example, in a bra or bralette, about 80% of support should come from the band, and only 20% from the straps. At my atelier in Barcelona, I often see women with large cups relying on straps for support, causing shoulder strain and back discomfort. To achieve optimal support, the band should be snug enough to fit only two fingers between the back and the band. This ensures comfortable and healthy support, especially for larger cups. However, I always check with clients about their comfort level and respect their choice, even if I advise differently.
The Problem with Wearing Ill-Fitting Lingerie
The fashion industry has normalized wearing garments that don’t fit perfectly. We get used to small tugs, uncomfortable adjustments, and marks on the skin, all to fit into sizes not meant for us. Wearing the wrong size, whether too large or too small, affects not only comfort but also how we perceive our bodies.
Why Accurate Measurements Matter
To create lingerie that truly fits you, accurate measurements are essential. At Sartori Atelier, we follow a meticulous process to ensure each piece accommodates your silhouette and fits perfectly. Check our Size Guide for instructions on taking measurements correctly.
Why S, M, L Sizes Might Not Work
Standard sizes like S, M, and L are typically based only on bust circumference, with an average cup size (usually B), which doesn’t suit all body types. For example, a 90 cm bust with a wider back may be an A cup. In this case, the cup needs to be reduced and the band enlarged to ensure the side seam sits correctly and the cup volume is in the right place.
Thongs and the Right Size
Many clients seeking small-coverage briefs often choose a smaller size,
thinking it will create the desired effect. But wearing a smaller size can result in a too-short rise, tightness in the vulva area, and marks at the sides, causing discomfort.
The solution isn’t simply buying a larger size, which may give too much coverage. Instead, choose a brand offering smaller models, consider custom lingerie, or learn to make your own. At Sartori Atelier, we design pieces with minimal coverage, like our signature thongs, ensuring style without sacrificing comfort.
Conclusion
Choosing custom lingerie is an act of personal empowerment — a reminder that every body is unique and shouldn’t conform to the rigid standards of the industry. At Sartori Atelier, our Barcelona atelier believes every woman deserves pieces that fit her, honor her shape, and reflect her choice of how to feel in her own skin. Custom lingerie celebrates
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